Sustainability in Paso Robles: Elevating Wine Quality While Protecting the Planet

Paso Robles is not just known for its incredible wines but also for its forward-thinking approach to sustainability in the wine industry. In a region where the climate and soil offer a unique foundation for sustainable farming, local winemakers are pushing boundaries to protect the land, produce higher-quality wine, and do it all with long-term goals in mind. Two voices in this movement, Hillary Graves from Booker and Andy Niner from Niner Estates, shed light on sustainable choices for growing in Paso Robles.

Organic vs. Regenerative Certification: How Vineyards Get Certified

Let’s start by breaking down the differences in all these terms. The path to sustainability can be marked by various levels of certification, with organic certification being the first major milestone, and regenerative organic being the next step. Getting regenerative certified is a complex and long process. Here’s what sets these two standards apart.

Vineyards Becoming Organic Certified

The journey to becoming certified organic begins with adherence to strict guidelines set by regulatory bodies like the USDA in the U.S. Organic certification focuses primarily on eliminating synthetic chemicals such as pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, and emphasizing natural methods for maintaining vineyard health.

Key steps to organic certification include:

1. Transition Period: Vineyards must undergo a three-year transition period where no prohibited substances (like synthetic chemicals) are applied to the soil. During this time, the land is essentially “detoxing” to meet organic standards.

2. Soil Management: Organic vineyards prioritize soil health by using compost, cover crops, and crop rotation to maintain fertility. No synthetic fertilizers are allowed, and natural alternatives like organic compost and manure are used to feed the vines.

3. Pest and Weed Control: Organic vineyards use natural methods for pest and weed management, such as introducing beneficial insects, using mechanical weeding, or applying natural compounds like sulfur for disease control.

4. Inspections and Certification: To receive organic certification, a vineyard must be inspected by a third-party certifier, who ensures that the vineyard complies with organic standards. The certification process also involves annual inspections and renewal of certification.

While organic certification is a major step toward more sustainable farming, some winemakers, including Hilary Graves, argue that organic practices alone don’t always address long-term environmental and ecological goals. This is where regenerative farming comes in, offering a more comprehensive approach.

Taking it to the Next Level: Regenerative Farming Certification

Regenerative farming builds on the principles of organic farming but goes much further by focusing on the entire ecosystem of the vineyard, rather than just eliminating chemicals. It emphasizes soil health, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration, aiming to create a vineyard that improves the environment rather than just sustaining it.

Here’s how regenerative certification differs from organic certification:

1. Soil Health and Carbon Sequestration: One of the hallmarks of regenerative farming is the emphasis on soil health. Unlike organic farming, which focuses on the absence of chemicals, regenerative farming actively works to restore and build the health of the soil. This is done through practices like minimal tilling, composting, and the use of cover crops that enhance soil biodiversity. In addition, regenerative practices aim to sequester carbon in the soil, helping to combat climate change by drawing down atmospheric carbon.

2. Biodiversity and Ecosystem Management: While organic farming limits the use of chemicals, regenerative farming focuses on creating a biodiverse ecosystem. This includes planting native plants and encouraging the presence of beneficial wildlife like insects and birds that naturally control pests. The idea is to create a self-sustaining ecosystem where each part of the vineyard supports the others, leading to healthier vines and a more resilient environment.

3. Water Management: Regenerative vineyards also take a more holistic approach to water use, emphasizing water conservation, rainwater capture, and even the improvement of watersheds. By focusing on water retention in the soil and efficient use of water resources, these vineyards can reduce their impact on local water supplies while improving the health of their vines.

4. Certifications and Costs: Much like organic certification, regenerative farming requires third-party certification. However, the process is more in-depth, focusing not only on the absence of chemicals but also on the positive impacts a vineyard has on its environment. Two of the leading certification bodies in the U.S. are the Regenerative Organic Alliance (which incorporates both organic and regenerative standards) and the Regenerative Agriculture Certification (RAC). While many wineries practice regenerative methods, some choose not to pursue official certification due to the additional costs involved. Hillary from Booker Winery mentions that many wineries in Paso Robles already use regenerative practices but don’t get certified because the extra expense isn't always justifiable when they’re already doing the work.

Summed Up: The Key Differences Between Organic and Regenerative Certifications

Organic Farming focuses primarily on avoiding synthetic inputs and maintaining soil health through natural methods. Its goal is to minimize the negative impact on the environment.

Regenerative Farming, on the other hand, goes beyond simply avoiding harm and actively seeks to improve the environment by regenerating soil health, enhancing biodiversity, and capturing carbon. It takes a more holistic view, working to build resilience in the vineyard ecosystem, often with a focus on long-term environmental benefits.

Both organic and regenerative certifications come with benefits, but regenerative farming is increasingly seen as the gold standard for sustainability in the wine industry. By improving the land year after year, regenerative vineyards ensure that they can continue to produce high-quality wine far into the future, while also making a positive impact on the planet.

So, Who’s Doing This In Paso Robles?

As of right now, over 30 wineries are organic certified in Paso Robles but only two have the additional regenerative organic certification.

Tablas Creek became the first winery in the world to achieve Regenerative Organic Certification in 2020, setting a new standard for sustainability in the wine industry. Their commitment to regenerative farming practices, such as improving soil health and fostering biodiversity, reflects their long-term dedication to environmental stewardship. This certification solidified Tablas Creek’s position as a leader in eco-conscious viticulture, inspiring other wineries in Paso Robles and beyond to follow suit.

Booker Vineyard achieved its Regenerative Organic Certification in 2022, further cementing its dedication to sustainable farming in Paso Robles. By adopting regenerative practices that focus on soil health and ecological balance, Booker continues to lead in eco-conscious viticulture. According to Booker Vineyard manager Hillary Graves, “The practice is easier than proving it”. She notes that many vineyards practice regenerative farming in the area and aren’t in a position to get certified.

Andy Niner from Niner Wines, is the perfect case of this. Their vineyard practices the same methods that Hillary does at Booker but has chosen to not get officially certified. Nonetheless, he’s a strong advocate for sustainable wine production, and explains that sustainable practices aren't just about saving the planet—they're good business, too. “Sustainability is important because you want to be able to make better wine in 20 years than you do now,” he says. Vineyards that invest in sustainable practices ensure their land will remain fertile and productive for decades to come.

Paso Robles is on the cutting edge of sustainable wine production, with innovative wineries like Booker and Tablas Creek leading the way. Whether pursuing organic certification or going further with regenerative farming, winemakers here are proving that it’s possible to create exceptional wine while protecting the planet.

In Paso Robles, the future of wine is green—and it’s a future worth raising a glass to.