Monochrome - A White Wine Heaven
Red wines have a reputation for being somehow more ‘real’ or more ‘legitimate’ than white wines, as if red wines are somehow ‘more wine’ than white wines. Wine drinkers often tend to think first of red wines and secondarily of white wines, as if the genus vitus vinifera has some kind of hierarchy by color. This is nonsense. It’s complete nonsense. White wines are fully and completely wines, in all their delicious and complex glory, and in some contexts (like a blazing hot California august evening) can be an obvious and superior choice to their red cousins.
When it’s 105 degrees you usually don’t feel like drinking anything heavy. Your palate wants something light, crisp and bright. Your mouth seeks levity rather than density. Think in terms of beer. On a really hot summer day do you want a double IPA, or a mexican beer with lime? The choice isn’t difficult.
This is one reason why I was so excited when I first heard about Monochrome. Monochrome is a rare find - a winery that exclusively focuses on white wine grape varietals. Monochrome’s owner and winemaker is Dave McGee, who began making wines in his garage while living in the Bay Area. Dave wanted to take a road less traveled, to indulge his affection for white wines, and began to make wines for Monochrome in 2016.
An empty bottle of Monochrome’s 2020 Barrel Distortion is sitting on my counter top as I write this post. This is Monochrome’s Albariño. A grape known for citrus tones and high acidity, Albariño is one of the absolute lightest white wine grape varietals. Pushing subtle peach and apricot along with its citrus flavors, this Albariño was incredibly refreshing. I’d like to pair my next bottle with a cheese board or fish.
The Center Tone is a fascinating wine, 57% Grenache Gris and 43% Picpoul. Grenache Gris is a rather obscure grape, a mutation of Grenache with a skin tone that is pinkish but also gray. The finished 2020 Center Tone has a nearly orange color and might even fool you into thinking it’s a Rose. You’d be hard pressed to find another wine like this anywhere in California. Featuring grenache gris as the lead varietal is unusual, permissive, even whimsical, yet this wine received 94 points from Robert Parker. 94 points! This is a rare beauty.
In setting up wine tours I often find that someone on the tour has a strong preference for white wines and I’ll be asked if there are any wineries that only offer white wines. The answer used to be a disappointed ‘no’ but now Paso Robles has a perfect answer. If you’re like me and you want to give some love and attention to white wines, ask about Monochrome and let’s add this wonderful winery to your itinerary.